2001 Accord maintenance question / concern …
Question:
> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the spark > plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF!
Yup. At least you asked them what you’re getting for $400. Most people I know just take it to the dealer blindly and let them do all kinds of unnecessary servicing. The parts at a dealership are marked far above list price (which is far above invoice).
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> Marty showed them the receipts for the > oil but they said it didn’t prove the oil went into the truck, or if so, > when.
Well, that would apply to dealer receipts as well. If you change your oil at the dealer, and you got a receipt saying that they changed your oil, that doesn’t prove that they actually did. Therefore, changing oil yourself and keeping receipts is as valid as having them done at the dealership.
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It’s interesting how they play the numbers. Up until 1996 or so t/belt to 90,000 (mi!) for the same engine, and it’s a perfectly legit thing to do since Honda belts come out like new after 60K, and I’ve never heard or seen a broken belt unless the engine has ciesed due to lack of lubrication. Dont’ try this with Mitsubishi or any European masterpiece! Actually, don’t try this with anything other than Honda.
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Yes, the latest models are 105K but like I said, they come out like new (on Hondas) after 100,000 mi or so.
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> if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may > cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the > dealer quoted $400 for this work, it’s very reasonable, otherwise they > are crooks. > www.anti-lemon.com
I believe the timing belt interval on this car is 105,000 miles for normal usage and 60,000 for severe.
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You don’t have to prove anything unlike what crooked dealers want you to beleive. If you have, let’s say, an engine problem, and it – the engine – is clean inside, they cannot possibly blame you. On the other hand, if a customer – and I’ve seen this many times – provides a bunch of receipts, and the engine is sludged up, I -as an independent inspector – verify lack of maintenance, and warranty work is denied. Leo Russ Independent Auto Inspector www.anti-lemon.com
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@90K, you need to replace the timing belt, and you better do it because if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the dealer quoted $400 for this work, it’s very reasonable, otherwise they are crooks. www.anti-lemon.com
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Not necessarily so. Manufacturer’s (NOT aftermarket) warranty may not even be after profit nearly as much as geico and suchlike since the company wants you to buy another vehcile from them, and unless you are satisfied – I am not talking about weird breed like gm/chrysler/ford/jaguar/rover/etc. owners – you will not do that. And let’s face it, they make money on new car sales, and dealers – on trade-ins AND new sales so a few bucks off of warranty is less an issue for them. Also, they – manufacturers – pay a fraction of what AM extended warranty would for parts and labor so they can afford to cover more and be more generous overall.
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What you are saying is partially true. I’ve been doing mechanical inspections primarily for extended warranty for almost 20 years, and I can tell you that ANY aftermarket warranty is likely to be money thrown away. OEM warranty is different but there are many little things that need to be taken into consideration. For a basic well built (!!!) car like, let’s say a Civic, warranty is almost definitely a waste but for an upscale luxury vehicle stuffed with hi-tech expensive extras it may make sense since 1. a possibility of breakdown increases with complexity and 2. almost any repair will cost you as much as the warranty itself or more. Visit these pages for some info on extended warranty, maintenance, etc.: www.anti-lemon.com/faq.html www.anti-lemon.com/lookatthat.html www.anti-lemon.com/misconceptions.html
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> if it breaks you will not only enjoy a tow truck ride but also it may > cause damage to valves and possibly head and pistons. Now, if the > dealer quoted $400 for this work, it’s very reasonable, otherwise they > are crooks. > www.anti-lemon.com
The OP said 96,000 *KM*, not miles. He still has another 50,000 KM (or 2 years) before it’s time to replace the timing belt.
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I have a folder with receipts for the oil, filter, etc. I keep very good records. This is ALL that is required by law. G-Man
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you > prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty > issue? >I don’t take it to the dealer unless it’s Warranty work. Sorry, just too >much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic >for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water >Pump I leave up to them. > If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the > instructions if you need it. > G-Man >> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to >> the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car >> needs a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top >> of it). >> I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour >> inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if >> applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the >> spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! >> So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on >> a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans >> fluid changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it >> myself would be good enough for a 96K service ?? >> What would you do if you were in my shoes ? >> Thanks.
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> By and large all extended warranties are a poor investment. First of all > they are not a "warranty" rather they are merely a mechanical breakdown > insurance policy. Most have a per-occurrence deductible and all of them > have "weasel clauses" to disqualify your claim and get out of paying. At a > car dealership the "extended warranty" contract is the single most > profitable item (percentage wise) in their inventory. Typically 100% > markup from cost. Statistically you are unlikely to ever have enough > qualifying claims to just break even with the policy’s high up-front cost. > Also contrary to dealer claims, having a valid/transferable extended > warranty does -NOT- increase the wholesale trade-in value of your car.
Exactly so. "Extended warranty" is always a misnomer, just as "road hazard warranty" is for tires. A true warranty is a period during which defects are not expected, so the manufacturer agrees to pay for failures within the stated limitations. As with all insurance the question is whether the buyer can afford the most catastrophic events the insurance covers. It goes without saying the average insurance buyer will pay more than they will benefit – that’s how insurance works. Mike
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>> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you > prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty > issue? >That’s an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he >took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked >at start-up. The dealer’s mechanic said the engine was varnished because of >inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the >oil but they said it didn’t prove the oil went into the truck, or if so, >when. >Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but >the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don’t buy >extended warranties. Others may feel differently.
By and large all extended warranties are a poor investment. First of all they are not a "warranty" rather they are merely a mechanical breakdown insurance policy. Most have a per-occurrence deductible and all of them have "weasel clauses" to disqualify your claim and get out of paying. At a car dealership the "extended warranty" contract is the single most profitable item (percentage wise) in their inventory. Typically 100% markup from cost. Statistically you are unlikely to ever have enough qualifying claims to just break even with the policy’s high up-front cost. Also contrary to dealer claims, having a valid/transferable extended warranty does -NOT- increase the wholesale trade-in value of your car.
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> Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you > prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty > issue?
That’s an important question. A friend of mine had a Toyota pickup that he took to the dealer just before the warranty was up because the engine smoked at start-up. The dealer’s mechanic said the engine was varnished because of inadequate attention to oil changes. Marty showed them the receipts for the oil but they said it didn’t prove the oil went into the truck, or if so, when. Logging the service in the vehicle record probably will get you farther, but the same thing can happen. For my part, I do the maintenance and don’t buy extended warranties. Others may feel differently. Mike
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If you do it yourself and want to ensure you’ve done the proper maintenance, or if you want to know what the dealer gets paid for, check the following maintenance schedule of recommended service directly from Honda. This schedule is for "normal service". There is a more intensive schedule for "severe service". If you want to know what that is just email me or request it here in the NG. I’m not advocating you bring it to the dealer, or that they are a bargain, but most people don’t know the extent of what really is recommended and what your dealer does or should do. Also, most people don’t realize the value of preventive maintenance which can catch problems before they become failures and leave you stranded on the side of the road. Most independents aren’t as complete either. If you bring it anywhere to get done, make sure this is what they do. I hope this helps. Howard o Replace engine oil. -Capacity with filter change: 4.3 l (4.5 US qt, 3.8 Imp qt) o Rotate tires. Follow the pattern shown in the Owner’s Manual -Check tire inflation and condition. o Replace engine oil filter. o Inspect front and rear brakes. a.. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks. b.. Check calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness of mount bolts. c.. Check brake lining for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination. d.. Check wheel cylinders for leaks. o Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 9 clicks (disc brake) or within 4 to 7 clicks (drum brake). o Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and rack boots for damage and leaking grease and fluid. a.. Check steering linkage for looseness. b.. Check boots for damage and leaking grease. o Inspect suspension components. a.. Check bolts for tightness. b.. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage. o Inspect driveshaft boots. Check boots for cracks and boot bands for tightness. o Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). -Check the master cylinder, proportioning control valve, and ABS modulator for damage and leakage. o Check all fluid levels and condition of fluids; check for leaks. If necessary, add Honda ATF-Z1 or MTF, engine coolant, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid. o Inspect cooling system hoses and connections. a.. Check for damage, leaks, and deterioration. b.. Check for proper fan operation. o Inspect exhaust system* . Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness. o Inspect fuel lines and connections*. Check for loose connections, cracks and deterioration; retighten loose connections and replace damaged parts. o Replace air cleaner element. o Inspect and adjust drive belts. a.. Look for cracks and damage, then check belt deflection by pushing on it (about 22 lbs) midway between the pulleys. – Alternator belt: 10.5-12.5 mm (0.41-0.49 in.) – P/S pump belt: 13.0-16.0 mm (0.51-0.63 in.) – A/C compressor belt: 7.0-9.0 mm (0.28-0.35 in) o Replace the dust and pollen filter. a.. Replace it twice as often (at 15,000 mile interval) if the vehicle is driven mostly in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air from industry and diesel-powered vehicles. b.. Replace it whenever airflow from the climate control system is less than normal.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs a > type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the spark > plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a > set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would be > good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ? > Thanks.
Response:
> What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
me? id do the work myself, according to the book. oil, filter, cabin filter, etc. you can probably find a good trusted honda/acura mechanic in the book who will do just what needs to be done.
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buy the parts and do it yourself.Go to dealer in buy tran fluid.Ck maint book to see when spark plug needed to be replaced also timing belt.Do maint and this car will last.I have a 97 accord with 175,000 miles,getting ready to do complete timing belt service.Also buy oil filter from dealer — Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
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> buy the parts and do it yourself.Go to dealer in buy tran fluid.Ck > maint book to see when spark plug needed to be replaced also timing > belt.Do maint and this car will last.I have a 97 accord with 175,000 > miles,getting ready to do complete timing belt service.Also buy oil > filter from dealer
Honda automatic transmissions are the easiest cars on the market when it comes to fluid changes. A 3/8" ratchet is all you need to remove the bolt, and the only part other than the fluid is a 14 mm aluminum crush washer (same as the oil). There’s no filter. I’d recommend genuine Honda ATF, even though it’s pricier. It’s around 2.5-4 quarts per change (check the manual). If it comes with long-life spark plugs, I wouldn’t bother having it changed before the scheduled time. If you have the tools, I’d pull them out and check the gap and condition. A locking extension will help. I’m rather wary of the very long fluid change periods though, and have the feeling they’re marketing driven more than anything else.
Response:
Just wondering, if you do all the maintenance work yourself, how do you prove to Honda that the vehicle was maintained if you have a warranty issue?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t take it to the dealer unless it’s Warranty work. Sorry, just too >much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic >for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water >Pump I leave up to them. > If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the > instructions if you need it. > G-Man > I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs > a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of > it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the > spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on > a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would > be good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ? > Thanks.
Response:
I don’t take it to the dealer unless it’s Warranty work. Sorry, just too much markup. I have a trusted mechanic at AAMCO who was a Honda mechanic for years. Most of the maintenance I do myself, but Timing Belt and Water Pump I leave up to them. If you have Pollen Filters, they are a pain, but I can send you the instructions if you need it. G-Man
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs > a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the > spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a > set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would > be good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ? > Thanks.
Response:
I would read the owner’s manual and see what the maker of your car recommends.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs > a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the > spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a > set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would > be good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ? > Thanks.
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I’ll probably get a myriad of flames, but I would have to say that it might almost be worth the $400 if you have the cash. But this depends on the dealership, whether they are really good or not. My dealer in Winkler MB was pretty frickin awesome, and because I had taken it in, when I had Trannie probs at 140000kms, they did not even hesitate to fix the prob on warranty, even though it was well over the mileage. at 96000kms, you are just about off warranty, unless you have Honda Plus. It wouldn’t be a bad idea for them to give it a once over. I guess the other aspect is that they should do that for free, or at least less money. But I guess i will admit I did the $400 inspection, and they did find some stuff wrong that would have otherwise gone unnoticed on my 98 civic. But my dealership was uncannily helpful when it came time to do warranty work, and I don’t know if all dealerships are like that. t
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs > a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of > it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the > spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on > a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would > be good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ? > I’d do exactly what you suggested, in fact I do the exact same thing when > it is time for any of the Honda service (if I’ve already done the other > pertinent parts). Air filtres are not expensive and the transmission fluid > change is around $50.00 (if my memory serves me correctly). > Brian
Of course, be sure to use genuine Honda fluids (except engine oil) – as the experts have pointed out many times here. Tranny and power steering fluids especially should not be substituted; brake and antifreeze are less critical IIRC. I also use genuine OEM filters. Mike
Response:
I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it). I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would be good enough for a 96K service ?? What would you do if you were in my shoes ? Thanks.
Response:
> I drive a 2001 4cyl Honda Accord sedan. I just hit 96,000km, and went to > the dealership to find out what needs to be done. I was told my car needs > a type 4 maintenance (~400$) + trans fluid change (more $$$ on top of it). > I was shocked to find out that type 4 is nothing more than a 3 hour > inspection! All they change is the oil, oil filter, air filter, and if > applicable, air purifier filter. For 400$ they don’t even replace the > spark plugs!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! > So what am I to do? I had my brakes serviced ~20K ago, and I just put on a > set of new tires. Do you folks think that if I just get the trans fluid > changed and oil changed, + buy the air filter and replace it myself would > be good enough for a 96K service ?? > What would you do if you were in my shoes ?
I’d do exactly what you suggested, in fact I do the exact same thing when it is time for any of the Honda service (if I’ve already done the other pertinent parts). Air filtres are not expensive and the transmission fluid change is around $50.00 (if my memory serves me correctly). Brian
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